Sedbergh to Staveley: Day 5

Day 5 required the longest mileage—19–because there are very few lodging establishments on this stretch. Chuck and Susy got creative and opted to spend the morning in and around Sedbergh and walked to a historic and very interesting Quaker meeting house. They then got a ride to the town of Burneside and hiked the remaining scenic miles to our inn in Staveley.


John and I felt well rested and took off as early as we could to conquer the entire 19 miles. We’ve been at the mercy of the places where we’ve stayed, which all provide breakfast, but in most cases not until 8:00, so it’s not possible to leave till at least 8:30. And it’s not as if we could leave earlier and grab breakfast along the way. There are no options, and a good breakfast is essential.



The scenery was fantastic all along the route. We had to remind ourselves to stop and take it in, as we didn’t know exactly what terrain lay ahead and were concerned about making it to Staveley before sunset. Also, on this kind of hike, we use the advice we received back in our China days: don’t walk and gawk at the same time. In China, there were lots of tripping hazards, so we learned to keep our eyes on the ground ahead of us and stop walking before taking in a sight. The Dales Way has almost constant opportunities to trip—rocks, holes, roots, mud, uneven surfaces. But it is a gorgeous trail, with endless vistas of green hills, rivers and streams, farmland, livestock, charming homes and farm buildings, impressive viaducts that once carried trains, and, this week, bright blue skies.


Today’s hike featured quite a few hills and some stretches of mud, but nothing as daunting as Day 3. John and I carried extra food and water for the day, as amenities are almost nonexistent on this stretch. Nonetheless, I ran out of water a couple of times, but we encountered other hikers who were near their stopping point and generously shared some of theirs. Then we came across a campsite near the end of our route with a DIY snack area that had water, and we were set for the rest of the day.

We arrived in Staveley in time to join Chuck and Susy for dinner, and once we stopped moving, our muscles began to ache, protesting what we’d put them through! What a day! Only one more leg to finish, and it’s a short one, at just 6.5 miles.

This kind of trek is like life in many ways. So rewarding but a lot of work! We all walk through lots of seasons—some exhausting and riddled with tripping hazards, others that are a real uphill climb, a few that are more smooth and relaxing. Preparation is key, but you still have to navigate the unexpected muddy stretches. There’s beauty all around, but at times it’s difficult to stop and notice it.

Today, a song kept running through my head that is based on Jude verses 24 and 25 , which is humorously but truly applicable:

To him who is able to keep you from stumbling and to present you before his glorious presence without fault and with great joy—to the only God our Savior be glory, majesty, power and authority, through Jesus Christ our Lord, before all ages, now and forevermore! Amen.

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